Born in Sweden decades ago, many times copied, then adapted and improved the Sprocket Brake System for chain drive is everywhere on new built custom motorcycles. Especially the ones looking for a retro look. What about the fact that a chain is more forgiving than a belt when you have, over time, a very slight problem of drive alignment, than you can customize your final drive with a chain in a dozen of different colors?
Haw Halters offers a nice version using a 4-piston design (many brands use only a 2-piston brake which can be insufficient braking) and a proprietary brake pad configuration featuring twice the standard thickness. Due to the positioning of the brake line port and bleeder, you don’t need to remove the caliper to do brake fluid bleeding. Sprocket is 51-tooth and made of stainless steel, fully heat treated blanchard ground with a shiny polish finish. Choose between left or right side drive for 3/4″ or 1″ rear axle. Calipers available in polish, chrome or in black anodize finish. Includes mount. At Hawg Halters.
Always loved the clean look when this kit is put on a bike,only 1 question,the chain requires lubing at frequent interval of time,and brake caliper fitted on the same rotor,doesn’t that create a problem with braking as lube sometime spills.
This one product im not a huge fan of because of what ^^^^^^^^^^ he said…… The guys at Hawg Halters are great people and awesome customer service….. Used them many times
Run an O-Ring chain, lube problem solved.
It’s a good system, works very effectively… I’ve never had any problems with mine.
Oring chains still have to be lubed, not as often or as much product as a standard chain, but none the less, still do require lubrication. This is a common misconception, but the actual purpose of the orings is to keep dirt and debris out of the roller assembly, which extends the life of the chain. I wouldn’t put a sproter on any bike that I would ride simply because of the fact that the chain requires oil, and the brakes don’t react well with it.
I would have thought the centrifual forces would have spun the majority of the lube away from the sprocket.
If there was an issue with lube dripped on to the sprocket when the bike is stationary, wouldn’t that indicate over lubrication of the chain??
Centripetal force moves any excess lube away from the points on the sprocket/rotor that contacts the pads. Aside from having to remove the caliper for service (which HHI appears to have corrected) I’ve always considered the sprotor set-up reliable and a great way to clean up the rear wheel on any bike. Glad to see HHI continuing to improve on the design.
Tolle brake sprocket system from Sweden has a lazer etched ring cut into the side of the sprocket close to the chain. It’s designed to sling any oil away while running.I have one on my bike and it’s works fine. John
Hmm, they solved that on my ’71 BSA Lightning by using a drum brake.
(sorry, I couldn’t resist 😉 )
I have one on my chopper and it is great. I use a Diamond O ring chain and it a perfect combination.
Good to know more about this….thanx brothers.
Semi-metallic and metallic pads will need to warm up to certain temperature ranges to perform at their potential. Another drawback with metallic base pads is that they produce quite a bit of dust. They have higher noise level and also have a higher chance to score the brake discs.