New Custom Handlebar Switchbox

handlebarswitchboxA cool small part for all builders hating to have some clunky switches on their handlebars, I guess all builders… Of course you can have none, or go for the sanitary look with this little switch box machined from mild steel and that you can weld (you will chrome bars with box later) or bolt on to your handlebars.

 Available with switches or bare so you can make up your own configuration. The back is coped so that it makes a really nice tight fit to your 1” handlebars. This kit includes one complete box assembly (box, cover, two switches and screws). One switch is a DPDT (two sets of contacts with 3 positions ON-OFF-ON) and the other is a momentary contact push button. If you prefer you can also get the box un-drilled without switches. From $35.00 to $45.00 at Crime Scene Choppers.

Zipper's

23 Responses to “New Custom Handlebar Switchbox”


  1. 1 Hercules Jan 10th, 2010 at 10:54 am

    Pretty cool.

  2. 2 alan Jan 10th, 2010 at 11:04 am

    i like it very clean

  3. 3 Lyle Jan 10th, 2010 at 11:41 am

    Very good idea!

  4. 4 ger Jan 10th, 2010 at 5:18 pm

    neat idea.
    they should do them in stainless as well..

  5. 5 David Jan 10th, 2010 at 10:17 pm

    Is that little switch for the electric front brakes???? What ‘s the point if you have to mount a front brake lever with a hydraulic cylinder?

    SSDD; David

  6. 6 jatinder pal Jan 11th, 2010 at 5:58 am

    To the point retro stuff.cool.

  7. 7 Lyle Jan 11th, 2010 at 8:57 am

    Every bar I’ve seen has a left and right side so it could go on either one, mounted anywhere. And it looks as if the throttle has an internal spiral.

  8. 8 MDK Jan 11th, 2010 at 8:59 am

    Pretty sweet and for a resonable price.

  9. 9 Fab Kevin Jan 11th, 2010 at 9:09 am

    “Is that little switch for the electric front brakes???? What ’s the point if you have to mount a front brake lever with a hydraulic cylinder?”

    Huhh???

  10. 10 GRIP ACE - DIGITAL SWITCHES Jan 11th, 2010 at 10:47 am

    Nice product with a cool retro look. We need options to keep our creative custom imaginations flowing.

  11. 11 Jeff Nicklus Jan 11th, 2010 at 12:14 pm

    FabKevin,

    Use the foot brake to operate both the front and rear brakes …. been done for years now.

    Over & Out,

    Jeff

  12. 12 Fab Kevin Jan 11th, 2010 at 6:21 pm

    Jeff Nicklus – what does a foot brake that operates the front and rear brake have to do with the question above mine, asked by David (that I have in quotes)?

  13. 13 Jeff Nicklus Jan 11th, 2010 at 10:00 pm

    Fab Kevin,

    Sorry ….. I mis-read your statement … I thought you were asking the question of the front brake ….. It has been one of those days! I friggin hate Mondays!

    Over & Out,

    Jeff

  14. 14 David Jan 11th, 2010 at 10:39 pm

    OK Fab, What is the point to mount a switch like this to have a super clean look and then mount a front brake lever and reservoir on the same handlebar? Seems a bit overdone doesn’t it?

    SSDD; David

  15. 15 Fab Kevin Jan 12th, 2010 at 8:47 am

    David – I think the point is, if you’re running a super clean chop, with no front brake, these switches will maintain that ultra clean look on the bars. Or, perhaps if you are running a front brake, and you want your switches on the other side on a bike with a foot clutch. Regardless – they are still a huge improvement in style over factory switches! To each his own, but to me it seems far from overdone.

  16. 16 nicker Jan 12th, 2010 at 2:00 pm

    Dave,
    “…What is the point to mount a switch ……. and then mount a front brake lever a…”

    Well, how about for those who aren’t too lame to metal-work the leaver onto the bar instead of using the conventional collar-mount.

    Hell, if ya weld on the box your gonna have to chrome the bar any way…. right?

    -nicker-
    (for those who ARE too lame….. go take up Golf)

  17. 17 Lyle Jan 12th, 2010 at 9:10 pm

    In the old days we’d mount a switch at the end of the bars. To get your high beams, you’d give the tassle a tug. OK I just dated myself and admit I’m from redneck Minnesota….Nobody ever had a kill switch and turn signals were the first thing stripped off.

  18. 18 Todd8080 Jan 13th, 2010 at 1:46 am

    nicker:

    “Well, how about for those who aren’t too lame to metal-work the leaver onto the bar instead of using the conventional collar-mount.”

    Actually I’ve never seen anybody mount the levers the way I did. If anyone has, I’d like to see a photo.

    http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr86/Todd8080/FLSTF/17.jpg

    By the way, the lever perches are easily removable with a single [completely hidden] screw, yet the handlebar doesn’t have threaded holes. See if you can figure that one out.

  19. 19 David Jan 15th, 2010 at 12:20 am

    Nicker

    That is a clean install. Is the screw hiding beneath or behind the lever pivot and the nut inside the handle bar? Good Guess?

    SSDD; David

  20. 20 Todd8080 Jan 15th, 2010 at 8:20 am

    Thanks, David. I’m not nicker, but the screw runs between the mirror stem and lever pivot and is accessed by removing the lever.

    There’s no nut or threads of any kind in the handlebar, in fact there’s just the one 5/16-18 screw. It’s not a conventional screw, though; due to limited space I had to invent a new type of fastener to make this work.

    I posted photos showing different angles of the controls but they were deleted by management.

    I mistakenly thought this site welcomed new and innovative ideas. Perhaps they need to be accompanied by a check.

  21. 21 nicker Jan 16th, 2010 at 11:43 pm

    Todd–

    Bout the only place for the screw to go would be under/behind the lever pivot point.

    After market bars with lever pivots on-em were available in the early 60’s.
    But were never a real big.
    Levers are one of the first things that hit the ground in a get-off.
    If ya mount-em solid they don’t get a chance to rotate on the bare, avoiding heavy damage.

    Have some vague memories of Enfield Street Scrambler bars.
    They had the standards scrambler crossover bar and had integral lever mounts.
    Fixed levers didn’t seem reasonable given the application, but probably was a marketing Department decision……. 🙂
    Anyway, sold that bike in 1992, so no pictures available, sorry.

    I’d be interested in the fastener ya used.
    That bugger must be real special, given the load on it and the limited no of threads in the bar.
    Is there a bar-insert to back it up?

    -nicker-

  22. 22 Todd8080 Jan 17th, 2010 at 5:14 am

    I’ve seen handlebars with lever perches welded on but not removable. If my bike should go down (which frankly would only be from someone hitting me), it’s a simple matter to replace the perches. I made up several sets and had them chromed.

    The perches on my own bike have been in continuous use since last April, and the Barnett Scorpion clutch has the heavy springs installed, meaning if anything was going to break or bend, it would have long before now.

    Despite their appearance, the perches are rock solid and the levers move and feel exactly like stock late-model ones. A nice little bonus is that the clutch has 8% more plate separation (travel) with this lever than with the OEM one.

    As I said above, the screw runs between the mirror stem and lever pivot. There are no threads in the handlebar, just a single hole. Here’s how it’s done:

    http://i472.photobucket.com/albums/rr86/Todd8080/HD%20Tech/Bolt-on_Lever_Perch_32K.gif

  23. 23 J Greene Jun 16th, 2010 at 4:57 pm

    good luck with these guys they wont even take your order fuck em i’ll make my own

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