This fully assembled Harley-Davidson Engine named the SE 120R (120 stands for cubic inch and letter R for Race)) is designed only for off-road and racing use.
It is made available to Harley dealers for their racing customers wishing to compete on the racetrack with an affordable high-performance race engine. .The beauty of this SE120R engine is that it is designed to bolt-in directly to a customer’s transmission and chassis with no special fabrication required. It is comprised of a wide variety of Screamin’ Eagle and other components, all manufactured in the USA.
Engine produces 135+ horsepower, 6,000 rpm, 137 ft. lbs. of torque and 3,800 rpm at the rear wheel. These results were achieved on a 2009 Dyna using the SE 58mm Throttle Body, SE Heavy Breather, tuning with the SE Super Tuner, and Wegner’s Stainless Steel Stepped X-Pipe for an exhaust system. The system was kept in open loop, meaning Harley did not use the O2 sensors. The Harley SE 120T engine has a limited production run each year and is currently offered only in Twin Cam™ Alpha and Beta configurations. Fits ’06 and later Dyna models, and ’07 and later Softail and Touring models. At your Harley-Davidson Official Dealer.
Anybody know how much $$$$ are they?
Would prefer to have an H&L 131 in my bike . Check out http://www.handlengines.com
Pitman…………..or install a new fuel map and power comander and swap out that TB for a Horsepower inc one then some 408g cams from Bobby Wood and the numbers would be closer to 150 tq and hp
RRP 8k in Australia for the non balanced.
Awesome value for money down under
These WILL sell! peace
nothing beat inches
If you want more inches……….Stroke it!
Harley… race? haha
good one
We have just fitted one to a dyna haven’t dynoed it yet will wait until customer has run it in,the only thing I didn’t like was the use of v+h shortshot pipes will rob some power and price down in new zealand about $9300.00 retail
Knuckle head for me always…..
Hope it doesn’t come with the 110ci head-aches.
I don’t know why you ass’s bitch about the 110ci. I have not had a problem with mine, I have even put hotter screaming eagle and s&s parts in mine and still no problems. I just ride mine the way she should be, hard fast and often!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Winterman is right on about 110’s and other big inchers. You gotta ride em different that your grandma did. Exhaust gases must flow in concert with the power band or you create unacceptable and dangerous head temps( lean detonation). A big inch high performance motor is not a good upgrade for a grocery getter or a Sunday afternoon smoothie. Short pipes on a monster are okay if you are only making a 9- 10 second blast down the strip but bigger and longer makes better flow on a street application .Longer exit paths create extended gas temps which makes for better flow
and a cooler chamber. Bruiesd , broken but still gliding. Death to all free range dogs.
Someone else who knows what a big incher is all about. They are not just a big loud piece of jewlery for catching women. Which is what so many are used for.
Should have kept Eric Buell on the payroll. Great engine.
Now we just need an up to the task frame and suspension.
135 ponies and 137 ft\lbs of torque ain’t bad at all.
I can only imagine the “pull” you could get with this motor.
My 04 Triumph Daytona 955i was dyno’ed at 132 RWHP and
80 ft\lbs of torque. And housed in a setup that weighs approx
420 pounds dry.
135 ft pounds of torque would be both noticeable and noteable.
Now to find a suitable package to house it in.
Has anyone actually have one already installed and could give me some feedback? I just did my 2010 Road Glide from 96 to 103 cu and installed the super tuner and heavy breather. I also modified the exhaust for the performance and kept the back end pressure. There is an increase in power but curious into maybe selling it and buying the 120R.
Any suggestions?
When will HD make this a production addition? I’d love to have 1 of these in my Dyna and my Night Train.
to “live2rideaglide”,
Shorter pipes are for running HIGH RPM (4000-6000 +), don’t matterif it’s a 1/4 mile or topped out on the interstate, longer pipes work on LOW RPM (1000-3500), the longer the pipe the cooler the gasses get while traveling down it , the “cooler” your exhaust gasses get the “slower” they travel, that’s why you put heat wrap on headers to keep the heat from cooling any, trying to keep the temp as close to 1300 degrees f. , valve lift and opening/closing degrees(timing)/duration controls the exhaust “SCAVAGING” not the exhaust system. the only time an exhaust system effects the combustion chamber is — if the total length of ex. system is Wrong for your engine combination (either too long or too short) when the exhaust valve SLAMS shut it causes an entergy wave to bounce down the ex. system at around the speed of sound (660 ft a second i think) when that entergy wave hits the atmosphere a “REVERB” energy wave bounces back up the exhaust system and reaches the head during “OVERLAP” and will pass thu the head and out the intake tract, (with beather cover/filter off and you see some fuel misting out the carb/throttle body exhaust don’t match/work with that engine combination, there is a formula (algebra/mathmatics) that you use to figure out what length exhaust is best for your engine combination
H-D engines don’t have “power bands” that’s for two stroke engines, carb engines can use different “ignition cuves” to make power slightly different at deferent rpm ranges. H-d’s are torque engines(Big Heavy Flywheels) produce more torque up to 5225 rpms then torque falls off and horsepower takes over. Torque is what accually motivates you down the road NOT horsepower. horsepower is a Bi-product of torque
on any engine combination always remember “If it eats it has to shit” you use a Hi-flow breather, Hi-proformance heads/porting, big lift performance cam/cams to pull in great big gobs of air/fuel into your engine then ignite it in the combuston chamber it “EXPANDS” so you got to get rid of more than you begin with, “Tuned/fancey exhaust system tend to make it constapated (chocked down) and are “OK” for your basic street bike, a “Step-Headrer” is better for performance engines, but you need the right length and wrapped and sealed heat wrap,
Think about this “if tuned/fancey exhaust systems were so great – why don’t race bikes use them, 98 % of race bikes use a step-header (drag pipe), if it eats it has to shit
To produce one (1) horsepower per cubic inch is a very “effient” powerplant, so the 120r makes 135 + hp and around 140 + pounds of torque, they have a very effient engine that bolts in your chassis. That’s not bad for the “Factory”. and it’s about time too.
the only thing that out runs “cubic inches” is “cubic dollars”. if you got enough cash you can build a 80 ci to out run – say a 110 ci engine, might not last 10 miles but you’ll out run him.
This 120R engine is a great thing for people that like hot-rod/race engines but ant a mechanic or want to be one. It’s also great for someone that thinks he’s a mechanic but really don’t know half of what he thinks he knows.
Sure you can have an aftermarket/speed shop build you a “Bigger or more powerful engine” but you’ll loose engine longivity and dependablity, while only having “ONE (1)” dealer/shop to get parts and technical help. It’s not a “REAL” Harley engine where you can get parts for it at thousands of dealerships.
So pick your poison, and don’t whine/complain about anyone/anything, could of, should of, that your not professional on
The Harley SE 110 powerplants are a good, dependable, and farely strong. anybody that has problems with one are rare or an idiot that don’t know how to control/munipulate (DRIVE) a motorcycle correctly mister disturbedvn.
Mister Pitman- a lot of engine builders/speed shops can build you a bigger or more powerful engine “BUT” it ant a H-D powerplant and more then likely cost more and want last nearly as long. I would build my own all out race engine but for a dailyrider/race track once in a while the 120R is hard to beat. You perfer a H&L 131 is that from personal experience or something you read on the internet, what size and make engine do you actually own, stock-a little mods-stroker What ? Have you ever own a big inch powerplant, dought it
Mister 1550tc – a new fuel map and a power comander control the same thing, waste of cash, better off with a “race tuner” on injected engines S.E. make a good one and yes you could swap out some parts and get a little more out of it but why, Do you build engines and/or have any real experiance with modifications/performance upgrades on engines or did you read or a friend tell you that’s what the 120R needs, or from a “REAL” mechanic, reading(surfing the internet) looking at performance parts web site don’t give you the qualifications to advise anyone.
Mister MQR – What is a Trumpet owner doing on a Harley forum unless you wish down deep that you had actually bought a Harley and too pig headed to realize it or admit it. Your trumpet works off “Horsepower” not torque, The torque is what gives a H-D engine all that “pull” you feel in the seat of your pants. As far as finding a “package” to put the 120R in , a stock rake/stretch non-lowered Softail frame is H-D’s most ridged and stable high speed platform. any rubber mount frame is barely adaquit for substained high speeds of 120 + mph. Research the “Dyna Wobble”, caused by a flaw in the design/geometry.of that frame type.
Mister Rockstar – you say Ha to Harley and race in the same sentence, research H-d’s racing history , heritage, and present track record of racing. Harley was the king of drag racing until NHRA banded them for attracting the “wrong crowd”, now that it’s “cool or chic” to own one they let um rsce again and been kicking metric but ever since. The XR750 has been and still is KING of AMA Class C racing, and H-D dominates the race track and motorcycle entries at Bonnieville. what do you own , a metric bike, scooter, bicycle, or what
I like this Spot’s Cycle guy….you got a website or are you just doling out knowledge to those who spend too much time cruising motorcycle blogs?
got a shop, been working on H-D’s since 1976, i build hot-rod engines and any and everything else on/to them, i’ve raced pro-mod before i broke my back, now i just street race, here in Louisiana the roads are flat with long staight aways, you can hold one wide open for miles so most everything i build now is for top-end, there was a shit load of other stuff that happens/affects the combustion chamber and scavaging of the exhaust gasses that i didn’t write because most this fake ass blog surfers would never understand, not just tooting my own horn but i am a master machanic
The key word is “R A C E” engine. There is always a trade-off when you add gobs of torque. I see too many riders lugging there stockers as it is then these same riders want a 100+ ci ? Just sayin……………. peace
Hey “burnout” them folks just don’t get it when it comes to “slow and low” (mph/rpm), and usually don’t use the tranny right either. They do that to a high-output engine and it’ll cost um, but folks like that keep me in buissiness. There’s a big difference between a motorcycle rider and a motorcycle munipulater. Here’s a good quote from me Spot Weems, “It’s not whats between the gears, but, what’s between the EARS.
I went to the International Bike show today, and saw the HD 120-R engine. One of the salesmen looked up the price; it’s in the neighborhood of $5500.00.
Hey Dwight Dunn, that’s about the average price that I’ve found, That’s not bad really and it’s in the same and or a little lower than engines in the same C.I. range, e.i.- the Ultma 127 or 140 c.i.
Spot – I’m not a mechanic nor do I know how to work on a motor. But I have a 2009 Fatboy that I put the 103 big bore kit on it from HD. I also put some high compression heads on it. But Im still not satisfied with the power on it. Yes its more than the 96 cu stock. I’m really interested in this 120R. My question is how do i buy it if its for racing. Should I just say I’m going to race my bike. I’m thinking the same thing that for the money and keeping everything with HD this may be the way to go.
What do you think!!
MC – I just priced the 120R from my Harley Dealer and he quoted me $5,750. Thats not installed just for the motor.
Instelled it will run you about $8,700.00 i have a dyno run 138.11 torque & hp 136.05 out the box with a borzilla 2into 1 and a heavy breather.
Khart, a lot will depend on your riding style, do you bar hope, long distance, weekend warrior,
for bar hopping and/or local riding(100 ml radius) or street racing i wouldn’t have no problem stuffing it in my FXSTB and throttling it. If you tour/long distance ride it’s not the best choice.
it is a “R” engine so it’s better for higher rpm playing and blowing past most everything around.it can be rode for longer trips but you have to remember that that’s not what it was designed for.
Yes, i would say i’m gonna race my bike and then don’t if you want after you get one.
103’s are alright but you need to do more then just big bore and heads. you’ll need cams, hi-flow breather, throttle body mods, hi-flow exhuast, and a race tuner that will all work together for starts to get the bore and heads to operate at their optimum output. being that and that your really not into working on/building engines and want more bang for the buck then i’d say get the 120r
a decision like that is a personnal choice, that no one should talk you into. do somemore research, talk to more qualified machanics, pool everything and make your choice. the only person you have to impress, satisfy, make happy, ect, is you and you alone.
i hope this helps you out some in your choice of engines.
Yes thats exactly what I will use it for. Not long distance riding at all. I’ll probably ride it 2 or so hours at the most. But I do bar hop, and love to ride it hard as well. My Harley dealer will sell it to me. Just need to decide if I want to pay the dollars. I also have a buddy that used to work for the harley shop and actally worked on my old fatboy. So he can install if for me much cheaper than the Harley Shop could. But I need to think about warrant on the motor. However your comments helped. I like having a bad running bike the others could talk about. LOL, thanks for the info. Yes that’s a huge help.
Thanks..
Khart, your welcome
Spots Cycle-
Thanks for all your info, thought of JIMS131 engine for my 2010 Road Glide- How does this compare to HD 120R engine or the hot set up 124 CI S&S
CMA888, the Jim’s about the same as far as hp/tourqe and price. It’s an excellent powerplant but then there is the problem of easy to get replacement parts, service(ha), info/customer service. There’s lots and lots more H-D dealerships them Jims. If you don’t have a local shop that is a Jims dealer the H-D engine would be less a hassle.
I went to my Harley shop and they sell the JIM’s as well. They were saying the 131 JIMS was better for HP and Torque as compared to the 120R cu HD . They also said HD makes you sign a release that the motor is going to be used for racing only. So at this point not sure!
SPOT what is your take on the JIMS 135. Are you saying the 131 and 135 aren’t as “reliable” as the HD 120R? I’m trying to make a decision on whether to chrome out my entire bike or just get the new motor. I’m also going to try to sell my 103 cu inch motor as well. It would make a great motor for because of the big bore and compression heads on it. Anyways always good to ready what is being said in here.
Happy New Year.
Khart – the Jim’s and S&S are dependable powerplants, you got to remember it’s all physics, for every action there’s a opposite and equal reaction. the bigger and more powerfull you get the less dependablity/longgevity you’ll have. none off these engines will last as long as your 103, make sure that’s what you want before making the envestment
Great advice Spot’s Cycle. Having a race setup has its’ needs. your advice is spot on IMO. Thanks for clearing up these riders thoughts. There is so much more to add then simply having some money to burn. Myself am hoping to get my crack whore road worthy again real soon. Later
Spot, thats a great point and what I have decided to do is to spend about $3,000 on chrome and exterior appearance. I just bought the parts this week. I’m happy with the 103. I think if I go to the crazy big HP It could create issues and do I really need that kind of HP….SO thanks for the advice.
I just put 4,000 into my Fatboy as far as chrome and accessories. So I passed on the motor. Thanks for all the great advice.
I have an H&L 131 with pop up pistons and a 678 Woods cam in a rigid frame. All I can say is its like controlled chaos in my frame. Its almost on the verge of just being wrong. Its insane! I can Barley hold on. I need to have it dynoed
Super G all tweaked too.
GLIDE: That sounds awesome. Is that the JIMS MOTOR you got. I still may get it. I can’t imagine the torque and power that thing has.
I have a H&L 131 all billet motor with Pop up pistons and a 678 woods cam in it – in a T-REX Rigid and I can tell you that big cubic inch motors don’t like traffic and don’t like long sustained rides. THEY RUN VERY HOT!! You need to ride em like you stole em, then let them cool off. They don’t run good cold and they don’t run good hot.
Anyway I am curious how these 120R motors are in every day conditions and I’m sure an oil cooler is recommended to keep it cooler. I know someone who is building a Road Glide with one, so we will find out real soon.
hey guys, i was just doing some reading on this site so i thought i would throw in my 2 cents. i bought a 2010 fatbob in sept 2010. at around 2000 miles on the bike i decided it needed a little more ass to go with the aggressive styling it had, not to mention it actually handled like a couple of my jap bikes i had. i love slaming it through the corners. it will drag the pegs with ease. anyway, i was in the process of spending a boat load of cash to rebuild the stock 96 cubic inch that was on it, then a came across the 120R ad in a hog mag. i did the math and buying the 120r was actually cheaper than just buying the parts, so i bought the 120r. plus i got the 20% off so the 120 set me back 4300. i sold the stocker for 2000 so i really paid 2300. i did put on a 58mm intake, throttle body, and heavy breather along with the high flow injectors. put in a screamin eagle race clutch, the complete clutch and was good to go. it runs like a bear. to be honest it loves the open road more than in town. when you wack on the throttle, it comes alive and you better be hanging on and ready to go through the gears because it will take you through the gears quickly. i am currently in the process of putting the thundermax ecm in it wich in my opinion will be better for it over all instead of being a slave to set fuel map that it will not deviate from, while the thundermax will auto tune both cylinders seperately and keep my chosen afr. just wanted to let you guys know, i am totally happy with my choice, but the valve train noise is a little louder than the stocker due to the bigger cams. anyway, here is my youtube vid of my bike if anybody is intrested just to check it out. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DeNCXZ0YJXA
i kind of skiped answering the question that was on here. it runs pretty much like any other bike. it does get to be a bear in heavy traffic. it does not like to be lugged down or just taxied around town. it likes the open road with the higher speed limits. at 55 / 60 six gear is pretty much worthless. you can feel each cylinder firing and will vibrate you enough you will kick it back into 5th. i found in 6th gear it hits that nice cruising sweet spot around 75 / 80. i am actually headed on a road trip next month to south carolina from pa / ny borderline, i cant wait to see how it cruises on the interstate when the 70mph speedlimit signs come up. as for the heat issues, the thundermax should keep that under controll due to the fact that the hotter the bike gets with the stock ecm, the more leaned out it will run due to the fact that the stock ecm will not auto adjust the fuel ratio. especially the back cylinder. i am going to put a oil cooler on it after it is completely broken in. i have 1014 miles on it so far. i have vance and hines bigshots staggard exaust on it with the quiet baffles in it. due to the bigger valves, it did get louder. especially when you cranked on it and let it breath. it gets really loud. i would recommend getting one to anybody. like i said before between a good forged crank, pistons and a set of good cnc ported heads, you are almost at the price of the complete 120r anyway depending on where you get it. my 2 cents again.
So my 2005 Road King’s motor just died at mile 4000 of a 5000 mile cross country trip. I had a total of about 75k on the bike altogether. It was a Stock 88 ci but we did the all the mods to make it a big bore 103 stroker and it ran sweet. Problem is, I am being told now that it failed because motors set up for racing won’t last when you ride 1000 miles in one day. So now I am replacing the motor and I need some advice from you pros. If I go through Harley’s remanufacturing program it will be returned to its stock 88 ci configuration but I will get a 1 year warranty with it. I guess I really just want to know what is the best motor out there for long distance/endurance riding?
Thanks for the help!
Nick
We’ve assembled and put into my 2007 Thunder Mountain Custom Cycle – Keystone 300 ( Bonneville Salt Flat Racer ), the New H-D SE120R engine, and are having issues with excessive vibrations between 2,000 and 3,000 rpms.
After my first road test we discovered it had 7 thousands run out on the sprocket shaft side.
Harley-Davidson stepped up to the plate, and paid for second build.
We sent out the flywheels to Dark Horse to have them balanced, trued, and welded. I’m still having the same issue. We’ve replaced all frame and wheel bearings, trying to eliminate possiblities. The vibration is in the handlebars and footpegs. This is why I think it’s something else in the drivetrain.
Anyone else with a 120R “B” engine Component Kit Form having this problem?
I rode this Bike from Annapolis, Maryland to Bonneville, and back home using a Zippers’ 120. With the Zippers 120, I achieved getting into The 130MPH Club in 2009. In 2010 I rode out to try to get into The 150MPH Club using the same engine, but was disqualified for a front tire, (my fault). The Zipper’s 120,
after 22,223 hard miles gave up just as I turned on our Dealerships street. WOW, how lucky was I then.
I purchased a 2012 Road Glide Ultra and after 600 miles replaced the 103 for the 120R with 58mm Throttlebody and SE Heavy Breather… have already over 2000miles on this engine and it keeps getting better. No heat issues, no excessive vibration issues either. It is a mild manner engine at cruising and low speeds, but when you open the throttle…. well, it is a good thing I have a back rest to keep me from slidding back on my seat. Oh and yes, it will put air between the front tire and the ground in second gear. Longetivity? we will find out later on. But it is a price you pay for the fun you get. I have read in other forums, (reason why I purchased this engine) of guys making already over 12k miles with no issues on this engine. And I always say that if you treat it right, it will last longer, yes, I do ride it hard at times, but most of the time it is for cruising with my lady. Passing power puts a smile in my face every time. Have to keep an eye on the speedo, since this thing will go 100 and you feel you are just doing 65mph. Warranty? there is no warranty on performance engines, that goes for any manufacturer. This is on you. The same will be if you get your engine build up by ANYONE, only the local dealer (as long as they do the work) may work with you on some warranty issues. My dealer will honor ANYTHING that is not engine related, and that is just fair to them. Make sure you keep a good relationship with your local HD dealer…
And that’s my 2 cents….
Will this engine fit on a 2010 Dnyna Fatbob? I was about to upgrade to the 103 cubic engine and stage II kit, from the 96 engine. Now I found out about this new 120R and I couldnt beleive what I was reading. I’m definately considering doing this after my deployment ends Please write back to me if you know something about this, and also would a dealer install it….
I have a 2012 CVO Street Glide. I wont to out a 120R in the CVO but Harley wont build one in the correct color for the bike. The bike will nit look rigbt with a black engine case and a granite transmission. Wish Harkey would stel uo to the plate and build and sell me the engine in the correct color for my bike.
Have a “Jims” 131 cu. in. for sale – 2011 – brand new, still in crate with warranty. Bolt in for touring HDs. Can tell you it is an absolute rocketship. Torque and HP unbelievable. At 3500 rpms it is like afterburners kicking in. Heat not an issue.
I have a 2009 Fatbob CVO that had 29000 miles on the 110 motor gray. The 120r motor only comes in black, so I switched the primary over to black and chromed the transmission. I only have 200 miles on the 120, so no numbers yet. I have around 9000 invested.